Friday, March 16, 2007

Hindus, Volcanos, and another blister (megan)

The past two days have been really incredible. We went to Toyabunka
(town at the bottom of Mount Batur). The hike to the top of the
volcano was challenging, but it was so amazing to be up there. For
breakfast we had banana toast (yuck) and hard-boiled eggs. The fog
came in for a little while, but we still had an amazing view. Steam
was rising out of the volcano and when there was sand you could fly
down the mountain. 400 villagers died in the volcano explosion 20
years ago, two Germans hiking without a guide died in the last one.
The Indonesian government told the people that there would not be an
explosion again, so they either can't or don't live far enough away to
find safety if there is another eruption. You can see that even
people in the country or living in the mountains are sometimes
influenced by western culture (mostly the young ones…yeah, there's a
punk scene here). Toyabunka was so hard to be in, the people were SO
desperate for money and, so very aggressive about selling you things
(e.g. following you up the volcano for 6 hours to sell you a coke). We
met an English lady called Trisha and decided to hitch back to Ubud
the next day with her and her driver, Nyoman. We were reluctant to
leave because the fish was fresh from the lake and the Hindu people
were throwing a party, but free ride, low budget, and rain made our
decision for us. We went on a day trip the next day with Trisha and
Nyoman, up to the North Mountains. The trip, along with what we
learned from Nyoman, really amazed me. First we went to the Royal
temple, then to the market: cashews, mangosteen, snakefruit, lychees,
and an avocado for less than $3? Yes, please. We went to a gorgeous
temple on a lake and then to a waterfall, where we saw a gigantic
spider, yikes! The waterfall is so powerful and so amazing to watch.
I have been thinking about how much time we spend thinking wasteful
and negative thoughts in our lives (nearly all the time it can seem).
As our Raja yoga teacher said: 'Thoughts last but a moment in time,
feelings are eternal'. I was watching portions of water cascade down
this mountain and noticing that each of my thoughts fell from my mind
just as quickly. It was the feeling of the waterfall that was really
the amazing thing. Anyways, what I really want to talk about is
Nyoman. I starting crying during lunch after hearing about his life
and seeing his beautiful view about life. Nyoman taught us that
Balinese schools are badly under-funded. If a student doesn't pass
all five of the subjects of the national test he is held back and
bored/humiliated. Schools with the highest percentage of students to
pass the test are given the MOST funding for the next school year,
leaving those students failing to learn to fend for themselves. It is
common to allow students to cheat and use books during the testing in
some schools. The ministry of education takes a profit from the
publishers for requiring students to buy new books for school. Most
Balinese families cannot afford ANY extra expenditure. Nyoman's wife
has had a series of horribly paid jobs; all end up working her far too
many hours. She has had a job making paper bags and waiting tables,
but she cannot make more than $30/month. Nyoman himself makes very
little money as a tour guide, as he must turn over all of his profits
to the tour guide association. He makes almost nothing. During low
tourist season (and especially after the bombs lowering tourism), he
makes nothing. Nyoman made a comment about his belt being to large to
fit his thin waist, he said "after the first bomb I had to make a new
notch in the belt, after the second bomb, another notch". Although he
cannot afford to take the required guide class, he will be penalized
and fined if the government finds out. Nyoman, like most Balinese, is
a Hindu. It is his belief that all of life is a test from 'god'. He
maintains a positive attitude with the utmost sincerity. He is
thankful to his elders- when his grandfather dies he will honor him
through taking care of the younger generation, as Hindu's believe in
reincarnation. He gives offerings to the trees in order to give
thanks to them and help them grow. Hindus are not allowed to cut
bamboo trees on Sundays and Nyoman is very aware of the effect of
cutting down trees on the environment. He prays to nature as he would
to a deity. Most of the people in the mountains are self-sustaining
and grow organic crops. Most people do not make a profit on their
crops, including rice. When Nyoman was young he would often help his
mother plant rice and large fruits. When planting rice one must have
their feet in cold water while they place each seed into the mud. In
order to keep the feet warm, they spread kerosene on them. When
Nyoman was planting the large crops he had to be up to his chest in
the cold water. This meant that he had to spread the kerosene over
his entire body. This was also helpful in stopping some of the snakes
and leeches living in the muddy water from clinging to his body.
Nyoman NEVER focused on anger or pity, but spoke of an amazing
devotion to Hindu and the importance of a positive attitude. He was
one of the most peaceful people I have met. I learned so much from
him. You really can't experience peace until you are free from
negative emotions. We should be thankful for everything in our lives,
good and bad. It is all just a challenge, and the perception that you
have of it will change the way you experience this life. SIMPLICTY
and PEACE, I am looking for it.

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